Spain is Amazing!

I will appoligze ahead of time for any incorrect spelling.  The dictionary in the computer is in Spanish, therefore everything I am writing is incorrect!  Sorry.  Also, the internet connection is not good enough for me to upload pictures.  Sorry, but trust me, I have a lot and they will be shared!
It isn´t fair to say how amazing Spain is.  From the cities, to the towns, the climbing and the country side!  It is amazing.  Everyone who has the opporutnity to go to Europe needs to.  It is something everyone must do!



First things first.  British Airways is the best airline to fly internationally with. 8 movies were available to watch at any given time.  The food was decent.  We had dinner and breakfast.  Our flight left Boston at 6pm.  However, because of the flight time, combined with the time change we arrived in London at 500am.  It was only fair for them to give us both meals! Now, this has to be the most amazing part.  The liquor.  It´s free.  I´m not talking one shot worth, no.  I ordered bourbon, first asked how much it cost... FREE!  Anway, the fight attendent gave me two nips!  Not sure if I was going to push my luck, but I asked for another round.  And yes, it was free!  I´m sure I could have gone for more, but I was already happy!

We arrived in Barcelona 1035am local time.  We picked up our rental car at the airpot and quickly realized how crazy Spanish drivers are, especially in Barcelona!  Tim was at the helm and we rallied through the city.  After being perpetually lost we pulled over for espresso and internet.  We were able to get WiFi on our phones and figure out where we were.  After finding our location and talking with a few people, we decided to head to La Rambla.  It is a beautfiul and old part of Barcelona.  Not to mention the higher end of the city. 

The city is full of fresh markets, flower shops, bars (espresso bars and American bars), people and shops.  I couldn´t believe how many clothing shops and jewlery stores there were. 

We walked around until we found an affordable hotel.  Most of the hotels quoted us at 299 € a night!  That is almost 500 US dollars.  We eventually found a nice hotel for 140€.  It was great.  We decided the next day, Friday, my birthday, that we would head to Siurana.  So we went out for a night on the town, in honor of my 25th. 

We went out to a bar and had tappas and beer.  The food was unbelievable.  Fresh and delicious!  The beer isn´t bad, but it isn´t like the micro brews we have in the states.  After dinner, we returned to the hotel room.  We needed to relax for a little.  At 11hrs or 9pm, we went out!  I could have never have imagined what was going to happen. 

At the third bar of the evening, the owner bought me and Tim a shot for my birthday, the bar tender did too, and these girls we ended up talking with.  Heather and her friend Nydea arrived in Barcelona that day as well.  They were having a good time.  They were hanging out with a Spanish guy.  I can´t remember his name, but I remember this.  When I first started talking to Heather, he said, "hey man, thats my girlfriend."  Not thinking much of it, honestly because I was just looking to meet people and have a good time.  However, I would find out later, he was not her boyfriend.  I only became privy to this after he had disappeared and Heather couldn´t find her purse.  The girls had never met this guy before, and he had scammed them.  None of us believed it.  I was blown away that these things actually happen.  Was it because they were girls?  Heather mentioned a few times about how much money she made, but honestly... I can´t believe I watched this all happen and had no clue.  Granted, I was enjoying drinks and shots for my birthday.    

Needless to say, despite the robbery the night was unbelievable! Each day that goes by, I wonder if the trip can get any better?  The answer is yes.  With each passing day I am more and more elated.  This place is amazing.  It is so hard to convey how beautiful it is here, how amazing the small, mid-evil towns are and the culture. 

I am slowly picking up Spanish.  Mostly common phrases so I can order food, espresso, and beer.  Being here makes me want to learn Spanish. 

There is so much to talk about, but I don´t want to spend my entire trip on the computer. 

We are staying at this amazing campground in Siurana.  It was started by Toni, he has many first ascents in Siuranna and is a strong climber.  The actual town of Siurana has 20 citizens and is a 10 minute walk up the road.  The climbing here is awesome, technical, crimpy and hard!  The European standard of hard climbing makes the US standard look like childs play. 

Adam Ondra did the first ascent of a 9b (5.15b) the week before Tim and I arrived.  We walked into the Cafe for dinner last night, and Chris Sharma was there with his girlfriend.  Tim and I had dinner the table over from Chris and Dailia.  Chris herd word of the new route and had to come and try it.  There are many 9a+´s (5.15a) here.  It is crazy.  Tim and I saw Chris warming up today.  It is amazing to watch him climb.  Oh and Dani Andrada is here.  I just saw him in the cafe.  This place is a mecca for hard climbing.  All of Spain is.  The more and more Tim and I look into the climbing destinations here, the more we are blown away.

I am serisouly considering moving here!  Damn, it is amazing. 

Yesterday I sent a 7b (5.12b) second go and today I onsighted a 7a+ (5.12a).  Both climbs were a lot of fun.  I have been trying harder routes 7b+ (5.12c) but haven´t sent any yet.  They are extremely difficult.  The climbing is hard here in Siurana.  But, I am begining to get the hang of it. 

Not that I am biased.  But, I am happy that this trip to Spain is also a climbing trip.  If it wasn´t, I woudln´t have seen half of the things I have seen so far.  Plus, the climbing is great.  

I´m sure I missed a few things, take my word for it.  This place is amazing and so is this trip!  Thanks again to everyone who thought I should go!  I owe you.

Today is the DAY!!!

I am sitting on my friend Tim Greene's couch, at his house on Cape Cod.  I can hear him scurrying to finish packing.  Thats right, we are leaving in a few hours for Logan Airport.  We have a 610pm flight to Barcelona.  It is actually happening.  I am going to Spain, the final step is to get on the flight. 

I had trouble falling asleep last night.  I had pre-trip jitters.  This is a big trip for me, I've never been to Europe.  It is also a climbing trip!  This is awesome!  I was nervous regarding, money, timing, if I was going to have as much fun as everyone thinks I am going to have.  Of course I am!  How could I not?  I am going with great people and I am going to an amazing place. 

Over coffee and a bagle this morning it occured to me, this time tomorrow I'll be having breakfast in Spain! How awesome!

My tax return came in today, all is good!  If I get a chance I will try and blog in Spain, if I am unable there will  be an extensive post when I return. 

Thanks to all who motivated me to go! 

Thats right!

Yes, it is true!  I am going to Spain.  I am so excited.  I think I was trying to psych myself out of going.  Why? I'm not sure.  Maybe I was looking to make a, somewhat, responsible choice?  Going on a two month road trip, going to Spain; complete disregard for financial integrity.   Most people would regard this as irresponsible.  However, since making the decision to go (and booking tickets), the decision has felt right.  I am responsible in my own ways.  I'm not leaching off the "system," or anyone else.  I work, made some money and now I am spending it the way I want to.  Yes, this trip will dip me into the RED.  But, I have no credit card debt, I know I will be working soon enough.  I will make enough money to pay off the debt. Plus, it's Spain!  Not sure if I mentioned that before.  It is reinforcing, the more people I tell I am going, the more positive feedback I receive.  It feels good.  Especially when news of the trip is received well by people I look to for advice.  It's nice.

Last Friday, my friend Keith and I went to Lake Willoughby!  Yes, I am addicted to that place, even though it scares the living hell out of me.  Keith was psyched to get on the Promenade.  It is a 3-4 pitch, 5+.  It was full on and intense.  The thermometer in Keiths car red -9 degrees F when we parked. 

Fortunately the sun came out and the mercury rose into the teens.  When looking up at the Promenade it looks steep, but climbable.  Once you are on it, your world changes.  Suddenly the 4oo foot ice route looks like 800', you are exposed, the wind begins to whip and you are looking up at dead vertical to overhanging ice!  It is quite the mind fuck.  The first two pitches the weather was awesome.  As we set up to embark on the final pitches, the clouds rolled in and the wind began to howl.  It was blowing so hard, there were a few instances where I felt as if I was going to be blown off the ice.

 

 

Me leading the 1 and or 2nd pitch. Depending on how you break it up. 

Keith and I decided to climb the route in 4 pitches.  Two short pitches and two moderately long ones.  He took the first pitch, I the second, he the third and I was supposed to take the 4th.  The Crux pitch is definitely the pitch coming out of the cave, our third pitch.  Keith crushed it.  He is climbing strong, mentally and physically.  He walked the crux pitch.  When I arrived at the belay, below the overlapping final pitch, the weather had begun to turn, I was cold and mentally disconnected from the climb.  I was not feeling the lead. Keith stepped up to the plate and led the pitch, one, in my opinion that would have been a fight for me.  The pitch was awkward, full of over hanging bulges, brittle ice, and a mixed finish that we had no idea about.         

Me following the final pitch.  Notice the change in conditions.  Oh, and see how you can't see the all the ice?  Yeah, it was that steep.

 We had a great time.  Neither one of us fell or had to take or aid on any gear.  I wish my head would have been more in it.  I have been burdened with a weak lead head this ice season.  I know I am more then physically apt to climb these ice routes.  I have the experience, skill and strength.  None of which is worth a damn if your head isn't dialed in.  I enjoyed the final pitch, since I wasn't gripped leading it, imagining the worst.  Thanks Keith!

After the climb we rallied to North Conway for the Mount Washington Valley Ice Climbing festival festivities.  PBR's were enjoyed, short films were shown and the mixed climbing competition was fun. Especially since I knew most of the competitors and heckled them.

       
The past week or two has been action packed.  During the days, I have either been shoveling roofs or ice climbing.  Tuesday and Thursday nights are training nights at Jays or Toms, and I have covered a few shifts at The Lake House. 

The snow was as deep as 4'

Shoveling roofs is hard work.  For some odd reason I don't mind it.  I enjoy being outside.  I set up a safety line with an old climbing rope, clipped myself in... what fun!  I love anything having to do with climbing and climbing gear. 

Few things excite me in life as much as new adventures.  I am back in my groove here, especially since I booked the ticket to Spain.  With Spain in the near future, I feel purpose.  Change and adventure are exciting, like a new pair of climbing shoes.

Not so new these days, but still killing it!  These are my secret weapons for Spain!

New Hampshire requires you to register and inspect your vehicle(s) in your birthday month.  I don't know which genius came up with this, but happy birthday to me.  Here is a check for 143.00 to the State.  Awesome.  Oh, and yeah inspection.  45 dollars, oh yeah that is if your car will pass.  Turns out the soup-can needs front brakes.  Awesome, there goes 375 dollars.  Yeah, just found that out this morning.  What does it mean?  Nothing, I am getting the brakes fixed and my inspection done.  It happens, honestly my brakes were unsafe.  He showed me.  The frustrating part is this.  When I bought the car this summer, the guy told me he did the brakes 6 months ago.  He even showed me.  Well good job sir, you replaced the outside pads, the ones visible with the wheel on.  He did not replace the interior pad.  It is worn down to the metal.  Not safe.  What have I learned?  It is sad to say, you can't trust people.  Especially ones you don't know.  It is a sad but true reality.  I should have asked him to put the car on his lift and I should have looked for myself.  I'm not an idiot, especially when it comes to cars.

What does it all mean?  It means this.  I pride myself in doing a god job.   I don't want to cheat people

The roof, finished.  (This doesn't show the entire house, but a good portion)

  or undermine them in anyway.  I was paid a good hourly rate so I worked hard.  I would never piss on someones back and tell them it is raining (yes that's from the Outlaw Jose Wales).  However, other people do.  The guy who told me the brakes were good.  Covering a couple shifts at the Lake House and seeing that the same people who were miserable before I left, are still miserable.  That is a horrible way to live.  Not to mention, they take it out on me.  Sorry I am happy, and have decided to enjoy my life. 



Inspiration comes in many forms.  This is an exert from an article I read some time ago.  It was an interview with Tommy Caldwell.  In my opinion  the best all around climber.  Humble, strong, and fascinating. 

Life is to short and precious to spend worrying about the things you can't change.  Control your life, make your own destiny and enjoy it!  If I never return from Spain because of some tragic event.  I won't have any regrets.  I can't change the fact that my car needs brakes, or that some people are miserable.  What I can control is how I will react to it.  So, whatever.  It's life, it's just money.  I enjoy being happy and excited for the unknown, the adventure!