Friday, February 11, 2011

Thats right!

Yes, it is true!  I am going to Spain.  I am so excited.  I think I was trying to psych myself out of going.  Why? I'm not sure.  Maybe I was looking to make a, somewhat, responsible choice?  Going on a two month road trip, going to Spain; complete disregard for financial integrity.   Most people would regard this as irresponsible.  However, since making the decision to go (and booking tickets), the decision has felt right.  I am responsible in my own ways.  I'm not leaching off the "system," or anyone else.  I work, made some money and now I am spending it the way I want to.  Yes, this trip will dip me into the RED.  But, I have no credit card debt, I know I will be working soon enough.  I will make enough money to pay off the debt. Plus, it's Spain!  Not sure if I mentioned that before.  It is reinforcing, the more people I tell I am going, the more positive feedback I receive.  It feels good.  Especially when news of the trip is received well by people I look to for advice.  It's nice.

Last Friday, my friend Keith and I went to Lake Willoughby!  Yes, I am addicted to that place, even though it scares the living hell out of me.  Keith was psyched to get on the Promenade.  It is a 3-4 pitch, 5+.  It was full on and intense.  The thermometer in Keiths car red -9 degrees F when we parked. 




Fortunately the sun came out and the mercury rose into the teens.  When looking up at the Promenade it looks steep, but climbable.  Once you are on it, your world changes.  Suddenly the 4oo foot ice route looks like 800', you are exposed, the wind begins to whip and you are looking up at dead vertical to overhanging ice!  It is quite the mind fuck.  The first two pitches the weather was awesome.  As we set up to embark on the final pitches, the clouds rolled in and the wind began to howl.  It was blowing so hard, there were a few instances where I felt as if I was going to be blown off the ice.

  
Me leading the 1 and or 2nd pitch. Depending on how you break it up. 
Keith and I decided to climb the route in 4 pitches.  Two short pitches and two moderately long ones.  He took the first pitch, I the second, he the third and I was supposed to take the 4th.  The Crux pitch is definitely the pitch coming out of the cave, our third pitch.  Keith crushed it.  He is climbing strong, mentally and physically.  He walked the crux pitch.  When I arrived at the belay, below the overlapping final pitch, the weather had begun to turn, I was cold and mentally disconnected from the climb.  I was not feeling the lead. Keith stepped up to the plate and led the pitch, one, in my opinion that would have been a fight for me.  The pitch was awkward, full of over hanging bulges, brittle ice, and a mixed finish that we had no idea about.         
Me following the final pitch.  Notice the change in conditions.  Oh, and see how you can't see the all the ice?  Yeah, it was that steep.
 We had a great time.  Neither one of us fell or had to take or aid on any gear.  I wish my head would have been more in it.  I have been burdened with a weak lead head this ice season.  I know I am more then physically apt to climb these ice routes.  I have the experience, skill and strength.  None of which is worth a damn if your head isn't dialed in.  I enjoyed the final pitch, since I wasn't gripped leading it, imagining the worst.  Thanks Keith!

After the climb we rallied to North Conway for the Mount Washington Valley Ice Climbing festival festivities.  PBR's were enjoyed, short films were shown and the mixed climbing competition was fun. Especially since I knew most of the competitors and heckled them.

       
The past week or two has been action packed.  During the days, I have either been shoveling roofs or ice climbing.  Tuesday and Thursday nights are training nights at Jays or Toms, and I have covered a few shifts at The Lake House. 

The snow was as deep as 4'
Shoveling roofs is hard work.  For some odd reason I don't mind it.  I enjoy being outside.  I set up a safety line with an old climbing rope, clipped myself in... what fun!  I love anything having to do with climbing and climbing gear. 


Few things excite me in life as much as new adventures.  I am back in my groove here, especially since I booked the ticket to Spain.  With Spain in the near future, I feel purpose.  Change and adventure are exciting, like a new pair of climbing shoes.

Not so new these days, but still killing it!  These are my secret weapons for Spain!
New Hampshire requires you to register and inspect your vehicle(s) in your birthday month.  I don't know which genius came up with this, but happy birthday to me.  Here is a check for 143.00 to the State.  Awesome.  Oh, and yeah inspection.  45 dollars, oh yeah that is if your car will pass.  Turns out the soup-can needs front brakes.  Awesome, there goes 375 dollars.  Yeah, just found that out this morning.  What does it mean?  Nothing, I am getting the brakes fixed and my inspection done.  It happens, honestly my brakes were unsafe.  He showed me.  The frustrating part is this.  When I bought the car this summer, the guy told me he did the brakes 6 months ago.  He even showed me.  Well good job sir, you replaced the outside pads, the ones visible with the wheel on.  He did not replace the interior pad.  It is worn down to the metal.  Not safe.  What have I learned?  It is sad to say, you can't trust people.  Especially ones you don't know.  It is a sad but true reality.  I should have asked him to put the car on his lift and I should have looked for myself.  I'm not an idiot, especially when it comes to cars.

What does it all mean?  It means this.  I pride myself in doing a god job.   I don't want to cheat people

The roof, finished.  (This doesn't show the entire house, but a good portion)
  or undermine them in anyway.  I was paid a good hourly rate so I worked hard.  I would never piss on someones back and tell them it is raining (yes that's from the Outlaw Jose Wales).  However, other people do.  The guy who told me the brakes were good.  Covering a couple shifts at the Lake House and seeing that the same people who were miserable before I left, are still miserable.  That is a horrible way to live.  Not to mention, they take it out on me.  Sorry I am happy, and have decided to enjoy my life. 



Inspiration comes in many forms.  This is an exert from an article I read some time ago.  It was an interview with Tommy Caldwell.  In my opinion  the best all around climber.  Humble, strong, and fascinating. 


Life is to short and precious to spend worrying about the things you can't change.  Control your life, make your own destiny and enjoy it!  If I never return from Spain because of some tragic event.  I won't have any regrets.  I can't change the fact that my car needs brakes, or that some people are miserable.  What I can control is how I will react to it.  So, whatever.  It's life, it's just money.  I enjoy being happy and excited for the unknown, the adventure!   

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