Verbal Diarrhea

            The world is vast and diverse.  There are billions of people on it, each one special and different.  They are flawless, educated, and erudite of their history and culture.  However, no matter the differences between societies, religions, or GDP’s, we are all human beings.  Broken down to skin and bones, we are the same.  We eat, sleep, breath and reproduce.  We live out of necessity and that necessity is to live.  What ‘you’ do in life is up to ‘you.’  But that is a fallacy.  Sometimes ‘we’ are victims of our circumstance.  Some are born into a poverty stricken family living in a third world country, others born handicapped and some privileged.  These are the things that are out of our control.  Despite inherent advantages and disadvantages, people seek out the same pleasures in life; they seek love, the perfect beer, the greatest accomplishment, the newest endeavor, the best this or that, happiness, people strive to be happy. 

            Why is it, within a culture, i.e., people living in the same country, from relatively the same socioeconomic background, is there still so much variety?  How come people still have different values, intellects, common courteously, respect for their fellow man?  A person can be given everything in life.  Money, respect, a perfect family and still be an awful person.  While a person who has suffered their entire life is the happiest?  Despite being from the same background people are different.  Is that how people living under the same roof can have altering ideas of right and wrong, one can  lack empathy, be blind to everything except what is going on around them?  Cohabitation is a bitch!   

I need change.  I fear if things don’t change I will go insane.  I am content and happy with much of my life, but there are a couple things that drive me crazy.  It is bad as a result of my lack of action.  I am not afraid of offending people, the situation I am slowly chips away at my patience, eats away at my sanity, overwhelms me when I just want to relax… I can’t do anything about it.  I would rather avoid conflict then say something, move away before every mentioning a thing. 

I am stuck in the melancholy world of the mid-twenties trying to figure out my life while enjoying it.  An uncertain, happy and sad, psyched and crushed, tongue biting, Emile.

            Abbreviated rant of the day, I am tired of being upset by a few things in life.  Talking and thinking about them are turning me into a bitter person.  I want to be happy all the time.  If that is greedy then give me more.  Life is ever evolving and I am learning as I go.           

  

Thoughts...

Psych, what is it?  Where does it come from and where does it go?  Some days it is full on and others, well, those are the days I can barley find the motivation to get out of bed.  With the exception of today, the past few weeks have been great (in the world of psych).  I wake up ready to go, energized, only to red-line myself with a horsepower enriched cup of coffee.  It is great and I feel great. 

I mentioned this to my friend Tom the other day.  I am happy.  I enjoy my life and I am becoming more confident in myself and what  I am doing.  I am not sure if this is correlated to growing up or a general confidence.  This confidence is pronounced in my energized state.  However, last night at work I was slapped in the face with a demoralizing "talk."  One of my mangers, (who shall remain nameless) is on thin ice.  They have been warned twice about their behavior towards the servers.  Basically their job is on the line.  Now this manger is on a tirade.  Unfortunately for me, I felt the brunt of this last night.  Good for 'you,' make me feel like shit because your fucking yourself.  That was the gist of the talk.  Either way, it really made me second guess my new found happiness.  In writing this though, I am feeling better and invigorated.  I am still impressionable and easily embarrassed about myself.  I have never been interested in being the most popular person, but I never want to be the person who upsets other people.  So yes, I feel wrong when people don't like me.  What don't they like me, what did I do?  It is mind boggling.  However, I am not so worried about that as I once was.  Since this is at work I am more self conscience.  I want my co-workers to like me.  I need to remember it isn't me, this manager has issues that need to be resolved.

Speaking of work, where are all the people?  I know memorial day is a few weeks away, but it is slow and I am not making much money.  This is a problem.        

Back to the topic to hand.  Emotions and why/how they change like the tides.  Obviously they are not cyclic, but they change at will.  More detrimental; emotions are impacted by the people you are surrounded by.  Therefore the issue.

Inquisitively intrigued by life, I know this is apart of the bigger picture.  One day it will all make sense.  Until then I am going to do my best to sort it out, and live life.  I am uncertain of the future, all I know is I want it to be fun, amazing, thought provoking, full of love, adventure, and purpose.    

  

Update...

Holy poop batman, it has been a long time since I wrote a blog.  So much has gone on since returning from Spain.  I had a lull of a month, post-partum-trip depression.  With the bank account depleted it was time to start working again.  Work!  What is that?  It is something I hadn’t done since October.  Bummer! 

I started working at Lago, another Common Man restaurant, also on Lake Winnipesauke.  Funny thing is this; I can see the Lake House from Lago!  Go figure.  In addition to working at Lago, I am tutoring twice a week at the Olivarian School. The Olivarian School is a private high school for children with problems.  Nothing major, mostly kids who parents never paid enough attention to them, so they got into trouble or drugs.  These kids come from privileged families.  None of them are from New Hampshire.  They come from California, Utah, Florida, and New Jersey… etc. 

Kayte Knower, a fellow climber has a tutoring business.  Until now it was just her, but she has accumulated more students then she has time for and that is where I come in.  Right now I have two students twice a week.  It is nice, supplemental income. I am tutoring these students in SAT skills.  Wow, if I only knew the tricks that I am teaching when I took the test.  I can only imagine the astronomical score I would have had.  However unfortunate, I don’t think these kids care enough to retain any of the information.  They say yes, nod their heads and are some-what attentive during the session.  I think they feel like the world has given up on them, so in turn they have given up.  It is sad.  I can’t blame them, for what ever reason(s) they ended up at the school stems from worse.  As a parent, if you cannot pay enough attention to your child to see that they are getting into trouble or using drugs, something is wrong.  If I ever have children I hope I won't make the same mistake.

Lago… Lago is fun.  It is busy.  My check average is less, (the entrees are less expensive then the Lake House).  So I am busier and turn tables more frequently.  I don’t mind it.  I like the people I work with.  There are a couple people that get my humor.  The managers are nice and work with you to an extent.  In the end, every restaurant is the same.  Food is made, you serve it to a table, the customers can make or break your evening and everyone has there shit.  Some people are hard workers, others do the minimum just to get by and if someone is having a bad day, more often then not, that person takes it out on their coworkers.  It’s the nature of the beast and a vicious cycle. 

On the occasion it isn’t raining I am climbing!  This season has been wet, not just rain, but seepage and soaked, soaked cliffs.  I have seen portions of cliffs wet that I have never seen before.  It is demoralizing and frustrating.  On the days where it is nice or climbable, I am making the best of it.  I am close to sending Dodge the Lemons, 5.13d.  This will be the hardest climb I have ever done.  The other day I stuck a move that was giving me trouble, with the confidence that I can do that move, I will send soon!  Sending (for the non-climber), is a term applied to completing a rock climb without falling or using aid. 

Since Dodge the Lemons is at my max, I am unable to try it on consecutive days.  It drains my core like no other climb I have tried.  It is so much fun.  The first move is a knee bar.  Starting on two slopping pinches, you throw your right foot above your head, do a drop knee maneuver that places you knee against the same sloper your right hand is on.  It only gets more interesting and fun from there.  It demands so much core strength.  Since I cannot work Dodge the Lemons all the time, I returned to an old project, Roaring Silence, 5.13a/b.  A route I tried a few times last year, but found extremely hard.  I almost sent it yesterday, on my third try this season.  It is an amazing feeling to come back to a project that felt extremely hard and feel strong and confident on it.

I am trying to run at least once a week.  I need to do more cardio and cross training.  I cannot climb all the time and expect to feel strong.  I have the ability to climb everyday, but I can’t climb hard routes every day.  Right now I want to send strenuous and demanding climbs, which means approaching them rested.  Running is something I can do on rest days and feel like I did something while letting the climbing muscles heal.  I am in a better sleep cycle, I hope it continues.  Rest is amazing. 

All in all life is good.  I am excited for the summer season, the trees are beginning to bud, and I can feel the renewal and energy of spring.  Despite the rain today, I am still in a spectacular mood.  I am working at Lago tonight.  I need to prepare for my tutoring sessions tomorrow and I still have plenty of coffee to drink.             

The European Adventure!

Sorry for the delay.  Although I am unemployed, life has a way of being busy and hectic.  Or I am making excuses for being lazy, or I have been waiting for the right moment to write about the trip... hopefully the time is now.

Ok, I have to start like this; the trip was, amazing, beautiful, stupendous, outrageous, overwhelming, educational, expansive, eye-opening, extravagant, exotic, life/personality changing, influential, and down right fucking fun.

Tim admiring the view.

Before making the decision to go, I was afraid to say yes, well, because I had never been to Europe.  A new country, language and culture.  It's scary, not to mention it is across the pond.  But why?  Why is it that 'we' as Americans have a stigma that European travel is for the elite?  Reserved for those who are off beat, off culture (this may be true about me)?  However, what I am getting at is this;  Planning a two month cross-country road trip was no big deal.  Making the final decision to go to Spain was nerve racking.  I am so happy I decided to go.  The fact that Spain is exotic, foreign, and beautiful made the trip all the more.

I could write about every single event, the trip day by day.  But, this blog post would be the longest blog post ever and I'm sure no one would want to read it.  Therefore, I am going to talk about the experience.  Actually that is a lie, I'm going to talk about the trip in whatever manner I feel.

There wasn't one thing about Spain I didn't like.  The food, people, language, wine, and climbing... great.  Oh my god the climbing.  There is a reason Spain is the sport climbing capitol of the world.  The province of Catalunya is a sport climbers paradise.  Tim and I got to sample three areas.  We began our trip in Siurana, then migrated to Margalef, spent a couple days climbing at Terredets, and went back to Margalef for our final days. 

Siurana, Sector Campi Qui Pugui

I must also include this.  I am thrilled that my first trip to Europe was a climbing trip.  Yes, I am bias.  However, since it was a climbing trip I got to see Catalunya, not only Barcelona.  I met real Spaniards, ate amazing local food/vegetables, and got a sense for rural Spain.  Something that I apprecaited more then Barcelona. 

The trip began in Barcelona.  Tim and I arrived the day before my birthday.  Barcelona breaths history, just look at it's architecture.  The narrow ally ways, gorgeous stone structures, the churches, cobble stone streets... Navigating Barcelona is less then desirable.  Once he and I had found a reasonably priced hotel we set out for a night of debauchery.  We had to, how often do you turn 25 in Barcelona? 

Back streets of Barcelona off of La Rambla.

The food and the atmosphere, the feel of Barcelona is amazing.  Walking around La Rambla was freeing.  I was in Spain, the weather was perfect, the cafe con leche delicious, there were people everywhere and the city is alive.  Did I mention clean?  There was no trash anywhere.

Human statues in Barcelona.  It was freaky when they would move. 

  After a crazy night, Tim and I enjoyed one last espresso in Barcelona, packed up our rental car (an awesome Skoda Fabia), and headed for Siurana.  To get to Siurana you head south and east out of Barcelona along C-32.  We knew Barcelona and the province of Catalunya boarded the Mediterranean, however it doesn't set in that you are actually on the Mediterranean until you see it!

Yes, of course I had to get my feet wet.  THE WATER WAS FREEZING!  I enjoyed the blissful, freezing cold Mediterranean for less then 10 seconds before my feet froze.  It was worth it.
    
After getting painfully lost in Reus, Tim and I found our way to Siurana.  Wow.  Epic.  Beautiful.  We spent the afternoon exploring the crags we would climb at for the next three days.  We stayed in a wonderful Bungalow at Camping Siurana.  It is run by an older gentleman and his family.  His son, Toni, who is in his early 40's is an avid climber and route developer in Siurana.  One night at dinner, Tim and I sat should to should with Chris Sharma and saw Dani Andrada at breakfast. 

One of the many crags in Siurana

The climbing was great.  The first few days were hard.  Tim and I had not climbed routes in a while.  The climbing was cruxy, thin and vertical.  A lot like Rumney, except Limestone.

Our next destination was Margalef.  My personal favorite.  Which is not fare to say because everywhere we went was amazing and the climbing was great everywhere.  But I was most partial to Margalef.  The climbing in Margalef is predominately pockets and tufas.  Awesome.

Margalef

   Looking at Margalef from a distance it is breath taking.  But the rock doesn't look that good.  Well, that changes once you are standing at the base of these Limestone crags.  The climbing was so much fun!!! We stayed in a great hotel.  30 euro's a night per person gets you a room with a bathroom, breakfast and dinner.  I'm not talking about a continental breakfast and a so so dinner.  Both meals were phenomenal.  Joseph, the owner was the most gracious host I have ever encountered.  He spoke no English and we barley spoke Spanish.  Interactions were interesting.

Our next stop was Terradets.  Tom and Jay joined our journey and our crew grew!  Terredets was sick!  But extremely hard to climb at.  All the climbs were long and pumpy.  I need a tutorial in Tufa climbing.  After two days of getting worked, we decided to spend the remainder of our trip at Margalef.

All in all the trip was overwhelmingly excellent.  The climbing was terrific, the people I met cool, down to earth and interesting.  I love the cars they drive in Europe.  Fuel efficient and small.  Ask me how many SUV's I saw?  None, oh wait pickup trucks?  Two, both diesel powered Mitsubishi.  Our 1.3 liter, three cylinder Skoda got 47 MPG.  Genius.     

One night after drinking, one of our crew members decided to rename the Skoda the scrotum and exemplify his opinion by drawing in the dirt on the windows. 

I can talk for ever about the trip.  I'm sure I have sounded redundent enough.  Final thoughts.  I am infatuated with Spanish culture.  Especially the climbing community.  Yes, I am scheming of ways to move there.  16 days was not long enough.  A lifetime isn't.  I am intoxicated with travel.  I can't wait to return, see more of Europe.  Climb in more surreal locations.  See more of the hardest climbs in the world.  Hell, I can't wait to move there!  Why not?  To anyone who thinks going to Europe is not possible.  Go, see for yourself, it is amazing and doable. 

Spain is Amazing!

I will appoligze ahead of time for any incorrect spelling.  The dictionary in the computer is in Spanish, therefore everything I am writing is incorrect!  Sorry.  Also, the internet connection is not good enough for me to upload pictures.  Sorry, but trust me, I have a lot and they will be shared!
It isn´t fair to say how amazing Spain is.  From the cities, to the towns, the climbing and the country side!  It is amazing.  Everyone who has the opporutnity to go to Europe needs to.  It is something everyone must do!



First things first.  British Airways is the best airline to fly internationally with. 8 movies were available to watch at any given time.  The food was decent.  We had dinner and breakfast.  Our flight left Boston at 6pm.  However, because of the flight time, combined with the time change we arrived in London at 500am.  It was only fair for them to give us both meals! Now, this has to be the most amazing part.  The liquor.  It´s free.  I´m not talking one shot worth, no.  I ordered bourbon, first asked how much it cost... FREE!  Anway, the fight attendent gave me two nips!  Not sure if I was going to push my luck, but I asked for another round.  And yes, it was free!  I´m sure I could have gone for more, but I was already happy!

We arrived in Barcelona 1035am local time.  We picked up our rental car at the airpot and quickly realized how crazy Spanish drivers are, especially in Barcelona!  Tim was at the helm and we rallied through the city.  After being perpetually lost we pulled over for espresso and internet.  We were able to get WiFi on our phones and figure out where we were.  After finding our location and talking with a few people, we decided to head to La Rambla.  It is a beautfiul and old part of Barcelona.  Not to mention the higher end of the city. 

The city is full of fresh markets, flower shops, bars (espresso bars and American bars), people and shops.  I couldn´t believe how many clothing shops and jewlery stores there were. 

We walked around until we found an affordable hotel.  Most of the hotels quoted us at 299 € a night!  That is almost 500 US dollars.  We eventually found a nice hotel for 140€.  It was great.  We decided the next day, Friday, my birthday, that we would head to Siurana.  So we went out for a night on the town, in honor of my 25th. 

We went out to a bar and had tappas and beer.  The food was unbelievable.  Fresh and delicious!  The beer isn´t bad, but it isn´t like the micro brews we have in the states.  After dinner, we returned to the hotel room.  We needed to relax for a little.  At 11hrs or 9pm, we went out!  I could have never have imagined what was going to happen. 

At the third bar of the evening, the owner bought me and Tim a shot for my birthday, the bar tender did too, and these girls we ended up talking with.  Heather and her friend Nydea arrived in Barcelona that day as well.  They were having a good time.  They were hanging out with a Spanish guy.  I can´t remember his name, but I remember this.  When I first started talking to Heather, he said, "hey man, thats my girlfriend."  Not thinking much of it, honestly because I was just looking to meet people and have a good time.  However, I would find out later, he was not her boyfriend.  I only became privy to this after he had disappeared and Heather couldn´t find her purse.  The girls had never met this guy before, and he had scammed them.  None of us believed it.  I was blown away that these things actually happen.  Was it because they were girls?  Heather mentioned a few times about how much money she made, but honestly... I can´t believe I watched this all happen and had no clue.  Granted, I was enjoying drinks and shots for my birthday.    

Needless to say, despite the robbery the night was unbelievable! Each day that goes by, I wonder if the trip can get any better?  The answer is yes.  With each passing day I am more and more elated.  This place is amazing.  It is so hard to convey how beautiful it is here, how amazing the small, mid-evil towns are and the culture. 

I am slowly picking up Spanish.  Mostly common phrases so I can order food, espresso, and beer.  Being here makes me want to learn Spanish. 

There is so much to talk about, but I don´t want to spend my entire trip on the computer. 

We are staying at this amazing campground in Siurana.  It was started by Toni, he has many first ascents in Siuranna and is a strong climber.  The actual town of Siurana has 20 citizens and is a 10 minute walk up the road.  The climbing here is awesome, technical, crimpy and hard!  The European standard of hard climbing makes the US standard look like childs play. 

Adam Ondra did the first ascent of a 9b (5.15b) the week before Tim and I arrived.  We walked into the Cafe for dinner last night, and Chris Sharma was there with his girlfriend.  Tim and I had dinner the table over from Chris and Dailia.  Chris herd word of the new route and had to come and try it.  There are many 9a+´s (5.15a) here.  It is crazy.  Tim and I saw Chris warming up today.  It is amazing to watch him climb.  Oh and Dani Andrada is here.  I just saw him in the cafe.  This place is a mecca for hard climbing.  All of Spain is.  The more and more Tim and I look into the climbing destinations here, the more we are blown away.

I am serisouly considering moving here!  Damn, it is amazing. 

Yesterday I sent a 7b (5.12b) second go and today I onsighted a 7a+ (5.12a).  Both climbs were a lot of fun.  I have been trying harder routes 7b+ (5.12c) but haven´t sent any yet.  They are extremely difficult.  The climbing is hard here in Siurana.  But, I am begining to get the hang of it. 

Not that I am biased.  But, I am happy that this trip to Spain is also a climbing trip.  If it wasn´t, I woudln´t have seen half of the things I have seen so far.  Plus, the climbing is great.  

I´m sure I missed a few things, take my word for it.  This place is amazing and so is this trip!  Thanks again to everyone who thought I should go!  I owe you.

Today is the DAY!!!

I am sitting on my friend Tim Greene's couch, at his house on Cape Cod.  I can hear him scurrying to finish packing.  Thats right, we are leaving in a few hours for Logan Airport.  We have a 610pm flight to Barcelona.  It is actually happening.  I am going to Spain, the final step is to get on the flight. 

I had trouble falling asleep last night.  I had pre-trip jitters.  This is a big trip for me, I've never been to Europe.  It is also a climbing trip!  This is awesome!  I was nervous regarding, money, timing, if I was going to have as much fun as everyone thinks I am going to have.  Of course I am!  How could I not?  I am going with great people and I am going to an amazing place. 

Over coffee and a bagle this morning it occured to me, this time tomorrow I'll be having breakfast in Spain! How awesome!

My tax return came in today, all is good!  If I get a chance I will try and blog in Spain, if I am unable there will  be an extensive post when I return. 

Thanks to all who motivated me to go! 

Thats right!

Yes, it is true!  I am going to Spain.  I am so excited.  I think I was trying to psych myself out of going.  Why? I'm not sure.  Maybe I was looking to make a, somewhat, responsible choice?  Going on a two month road trip, going to Spain; complete disregard for financial integrity.   Most people would regard this as irresponsible.  However, since making the decision to go (and booking tickets), the decision has felt right.  I am responsible in my own ways.  I'm not leaching off the "system," or anyone else.  I work, made some money and now I am spending it the way I want to.  Yes, this trip will dip me into the RED.  But, I have no credit card debt, I know I will be working soon enough.  I will make enough money to pay off the debt. Plus, it's Spain!  Not sure if I mentioned that before.  It is reinforcing, the more people I tell I am going, the more positive feedback I receive.  It feels good.  Especially when news of the trip is received well by people I look to for advice.  It's nice.

Last Friday, my friend Keith and I went to Lake Willoughby!  Yes, I am addicted to that place, even though it scares the living hell out of me.  Keith was psyched to get on the Promenade.  It is a 3-4 pitch, 5+.  It was full on and intense.  The thermometer in Keiths car red -9 degrees F when we parked. 

Fortunately the sun came out and the mercury rose into the teens.  When looking up at the Promenade it looks steep, but climbable.  Once you are on it, your world changes.  Suddenly the 4oo foot ice route looks like 800', you are exposed, the wind begins to whip and you are looking up at dead vertical to overhanging ice!  It is quite the mind fuck.  The first two pitches the weather was awesome.  As we set up to embark on the final pitches, the clouds rolled in and the wind began to howl.  It was blowing so hard, there were a few instances where I felt as if I was going to be blown off the ice.

 

 

Me leading the 1 and or 2nd pitch. Depending on how you break it up. 

Keith and I decided to climb the route in 4 pitches.  Two short pitches and two moderately long ones.  He took the first pitch, I the second, he the third and I was supposed to take the 4th.  The Crux pitch is definitely the pitch coming out of the cave, our third pitch.  Keith crushed it.  He is climbing strong, mentally and physically.  He walked the crux pitch.  When I arrived at the belay, below the overlapping final pitch, the weather had begun to turn, I was cold and mentally disconnected from the climb.  I was not feeling the lead. Keith stepped up to the plate and led the pitch, one, in my opinion that would have been a fight for me.  The pitch was awkward, full of over hanging bulges, brittle ice, and a mixed finish that we had no idea about.         

Me following the final pitch.  Notice the change in conditions.  Oh, and see how you can't see the all the ice?  Yeah, it was that steep.

 We had a great time.  Neither one of us fell or had to take or aid on any gear.  I wish my head would have been more in it.  I have been burdened with a weak lead head this ice season.  I know I am more then physically apt to climb these ice routes.  I have the experience, skill and strength.  None of which is worth a damn if your head isn't dialed in.  I enjoyed the final pitch, since I wasn't gripped leading it, imagining the worst.  Thanks Keith!

After the climb we rallied to North Conway for the Mount Washington Valley Ice Climbing festival festivities.  PBR's were enjoyed, short films were shown and the mixed climbing competition was fun. Especially since I knew most of the competitors and heckled them.

       
The past week or two has been action packed.  During the days, I have either been shoveling roofs or ice climbing.  Tuesday and Thursday nights are training nights at Jays or Toms, and I have covered a few shifts at The Lake House. 

The snow was as deep as 4'

Shoveling roofs is hard work.  For some odd reason I don't mind it.  I enjoy being outside.  I set up a safety line with an old climbing rope, clipped myself in... what fun!  I love anything having to do with climbing and climbing gear. 

Few things excite me in life as much as new adventures.  I am back in my groove here, especially since I booked the ticket to Spain.  With Spain in the near future, I feel purpose.  Change and adventure are exciting, like a new pair of climbing shoes.

Not so new these days, but still killing it!  These are my secret weapons for Spain!

New Hampshire requires you to register and inspect your vehicle(s) in your birthday month.  I don't know which genius came up with this, but happy birthday to me.  Here is a check for 143.00 to the State.  Awesome.  Oh, and yeah inspection.  45 dollars, oh yeah that is if your car will pass.  Turns out the soup-can needs front brakes.  Awesome, there goes 375 dollars.  Yeah, just found that out this morning.  What does it mean?  Nothing, I am getting the brakes fixed and my inspection done.  It happens, honestly my brakes were unsafe.  He showed me.  The frustrating part is this.  When I bought the car this summer, the guy told me he did the brakes 6 months ago.  He even showed me.  Well good job sir, you replaced the outside pads, the ones visible with the wheel on.  He did not replace the interior pad.  It is worn down to the metal.  Not safe.  What have I learned?  It is sad to say, you can't trust people.  Especially ones you don't know.  It is a sad but true reality.  I should have asked him to put the car on his lift and I should have looked for myself.  I'm not an idiot, especially when it comes to cars.

What does it all mean?  It means this.  I pride myself in doing a god job.   I don't want to cheat people

The roof, finished.  (This doesn't show the entire house, but a good portion)

  or undermine them in anyway.  I was paid a good hourly rate so I worked hard.  I would never piss on someones back and tell them it is raining (yes that's from the Outlaw Jose Wales).  However, other people do.  The guy who told me the brakes were good.  Covering a couple shifts at the Lake House and seeing that the same people who were miserable before I left, are still miserable.  That is a horrible way to live.  Not to mention, they take it out on me.  Sorry I am happy, and have decided to enjoy my life. 



Inspiration comes in many forms.  This is an exert from an article I read some time ago.  It was an interview with Tommy Caldwell.  In my opinion  the best all around climber.  Humble, strong, and fascinating. 

Life is to short and precious to spend worrying about the things you can't change.  Control your life, make your own destiny and enjoy it!  If I never return from Spain because of some tragic event.  I won't have any regrets.  I can't change the fact that my car needs brakes, or that some people are miserable.  What I can control is how I will react to it.  So, whatever.  It's life, it's just money.  I enjoy being happy and excited for the unknown, the adventure!   

The Past Week

I have no concept of time.  I understand seconds, minutes, hours, days... but I never know what day of the week it is.  Last week may as well been a month ago.  Here is a recap of my last week.  If it really was a week?


Last weekend I visited my friend Andrew in Boston.  I always enjoy spending time with him.  We didn't do anything  extravagant.  Drank beers, ate food, watched movies, went to a party, and I helped him get his car out of his driveway.  What more are friends for?  He is student teaching and enjoying it.  I felt bad, Monday and Tuesday he was up at 530am and I stayed asleep on his futon.

Although I had only been back in New Hampshire for a couple weeks, it felt really good to, "escape" to Boston.  I enjoy the city, more so the ideal.  Driving there, away from home (worries and thoughts), I enjoy the adventure.  I like getting away.  Home, Holderness, can pull me down.  Especially when I have nothing to do.  After returning on Tuesday, I have felt my groove.  I've been ice climbing and the weeknight bouldering sessions are in full swing, and I'm working tonight!  Maybe I'll make 80 bucks!

Tuesday nights Jason Conway has people over his house.  He has a fun, and stout bouldering wall in his house.  Good beers are drank, we listen to 80's and 90's gangster rap and throw down.  His boulder problems are so much fun.  Did I mention they are hard?  They are explosive and powerful!  The way bouldering is meant to be.  Tom (Armstrong, the man, the myth, the legend, for those of you who haven't herd of him), put an addition onto his basement bouldering wall.  It's great!  We had a session there Thursday night.  The usual crew showed up, we made some new boulder/route problems.  It was fun.  Once again, climbers + beer + music = fun!!! 

Friday I went with my roommate Eric to Lake Willoughby!  Holly-fucking-God is that place awesome.  Talk about long, pure ice routes!  V-threads!  What the fuck is that shit!  A simple explanation of a V-Thread:  You take your biggest ice screw, usually a 22cm.  At an angle, roughly 45 degrees you place the screw into the ice.  Then you back it out, half way.  If you have another 22cm screw, you visually/conceptually imagine where to place it so it will hit the hollow hole from the other screw.  If it is successfully done, they will meet, creating a V in the ice.  Then you thread it with, webbing, cord-a-let or a sling.  Tie it off and use it as a rappel anchor.

V-thread rappel anchor.

  The heavier of the two climbers rappels first with an ice screw backing up the system in case it fails (shown above).  If the heavier person makes it down successfully, the other person rappels on the V-Thread only.  Really freaky, but, if it is done properly in good, solid ice, its bomber!  Since the ice climbs at Lake Willoughby are so long, they require multiple rappels.  And, since it's all ice, V-threads are the technique used for getting down... safely that is.  

Lake Willoughby

The lake is amazing.  The routes are astonishing, I can't wait to go back and climb more! It's funny.  There are two worlds there.  The ice fishers', and ice climbers.  We talk about their bob houses at belay stations and they give us the stink eye!          

The drive through Franconia Notch was beautiful, honestly, when is it not?

Today I climbed a few pitches of ice at Rumney.  I met my friend Corey Schwartz earlier.  He lives the married life and has a full time job.  He loves being able to get out for morning sessions.  We climbed a few lines at the Parking lot wall at Rumney.  I had an interesting conversation with the White Mountain Law Enforcement.  He had a radar gun in his expedition and I asked him if he could issue speeding tickets.  He told me he could do whatever he wanted to.  Then I asked him how accurate the radar was.  He responded that he is trained to assess how fast someone is going, then he radars them, and if his assessment is within 3 MPH of what the radar reads, he will pull "you" over.  Kind of fucked? Anyway, we set up a top rope on a thin, chandelier-ed climb called "Frankie Lee."  It was a lot of fun. I took a burn on the left side, which was full of slightly over hanging bulges, great stems, a little mixed stemming.  I knocked a good size block of ice off and hit myself in the head/face.  Some blood, nothing major.

Corey psyched to CLIMB!  Sorry ladies, he's married!

Tomorrow Anthony Cormier is driving up.  We hope to ice climb, maybe rock climb if the weather agrees.  If we rock climb we will do some night ice!  Night ice is so much fun, especially on cold clear nights.  The ice glows a different shade of blue in the moonlight.

I'm conflicted!  Should I go to Spain for two weeks?  I could, I have the money (kind of).  I would return broke, but it would be a great adventure.  On the other hand.  I'm finally feeling back in my groove here.  I applied for a job as a sales associate at Plymouth Ski and Sport.  It is the local out door gear shop.  They don't carry any super technical gear.  Basic, everyday gear that non-climbers purchase.  Also, I have made plans with a few friends to spend my birthday in Montreal... if I go to Spain I don't think Montreal would happen. It kind of seems like a no brainer, but I can't decide what I should do!

I'm out of coffee and its time to get ready for work!    

Whats next?

I have been back from my road trip for a month.  The trip is over, however my journey isn't.  In fact, I feel that it has only begun. I really enjoyed writing down my thoughts and retelling the adventures I had.  Why should that have to end?  It shouldn't.  The new blog will be the sequel to the trip blog.  A continuation of my random thoughts, climbing, and everyday life!

Subconsciously I don't want to go back to work.  Or at least that's what I think.  Since returning, I have worked a little.  By that I mean I worked one night at the Lake House, did one odd job, and I am working this Saturday at the Lake House.  None of which have been extremely lucrative.  I still have money in the bank, more then I am accustomed to.  However, if I am home in NH, in my apartment I feel that I should work.  Why should I eat away at the money I do have if i don't have too?  Am I becoming greedy?  I have a desire to make money, at the same time I can't find the motivation to commit to anything.  There are other restaurants I could go to, I could find a boring desk job, or anything.  So why haven't I?

My lease ends on March, 31st.  There is a big "?" surrounding that date.  There is an endless stream of thoughts running through my head. I can never spend enough time on one thought to truly evaluate it before another one creeps in.  I like my apartment, the location and rent are awesome.  The building is quirky and a bitch to heat in the winter.  I'm afraid to sign a lease for another year. I have a roommate who isn't my favorite person to live with.  The hardest part, about the situation is I don't think he gets anything.  He doesn't understand how is actions affect those around him.  Thats all I am going to say about that.

So, what do i do.  Move into another apartment?  Move away? So where?  Do I commit to graduate school?  I've been contemplating graduate programs in geology, geography, a masters in education, or psychology?  As my mood changes through out the day so does my psych.  Some times I'm interested in education, other times it's geology... a sign curve of emotions.

The amazing news is this.  I did some epic, amazing ice climbing in the Adirondacks.  Met this guy named Joe Szot.  He is 50, doesn't look a day over 40, has a massive fro of curly dark hair, and is an ice and mixed climbing machine.  He is responsible for a majority of the hard classic lines in the Adirondacks.  He runs a unofficial climbers hostile out of his barn.  It is an ice climbers paradise.

Me, Leading Pleasure Treasure. Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks

I also got out and did some single pitch vertical ice in the Flume Gorge.  The flume is great because of the quantity of hard ice climbs.  The hike is easy, the gorge is cold and the ice is fat!  I went there with my friend Keith.  He and I lead some pitches and set top rope up on some steep lines too.  We repeated the lines, a.k.a, ran laps for strength, endurance, and technique.

Me, leading the first climb of the day in the Flume.

  This has to be the funniest turn of events.  The other day, Saturday to be exact.  I was getting ready to drive down to Boston to visit my friend Andrew.  I was hoping to find someone to ice climb with.  People were either busy, or thought it would be too cold.  Around noon, I was blasting metal and Jay Conway appears in my door way.  He said Tim and Jay Knower were climbing at Waimea and it wasn't bad!  We went rock climbing!

Jay Conway trying to stay warm!

Tim Deroehn working the Barracuda section of Cold War.  Jay Knower looking like a creeper belaying!

It turned out to be a great day climbing.  It was 18 degrees, the sun warmed the rock to the touch.  I was psyched. I was able to warm up on Techno Surfing.  But I was schooled trying to resend Suburban.  Fun was had, some people stayed warm and others froze.  A typical day rock climbing in the middle of winter!